Although we originally planned to split our time in Buenos Aires between several suburbs, we ended up basing ourselves for the entire time in the suburb of San Telmo. San Telmo is the artsy, bohemian part of Buenos Aires (although my sister Hannah might prefer to classify it as the dirty and dilapidated part). However, once you get over the run down buildings, broken pavements littered with dog poo and broken glass and the noise of the traffic, you find a fascinating neighbourhood full of little delights. You can walk up the same street several times before you even notice a restaurant or a little corner shop or turn a corner and suddenly find a building that looks like it belongs in 19th century Italy (although carefully coloured-in by some local graffiti artist).
I think my favourite thing about St Telmo is the Sunday market. All the little antique stores spill on to the streets and are joined by local artists selling their handmade produce. It reminded me a lot of a Durban market – so much colour and so many unique products. Unfortunately I was very limited by the size of my luggage so pictures of the wares will have to suffice! (Em)